Marrakech: sunny jewel in a dark April

Maroc Marrakech Jemaa-el-Fna Luc Viatour
Maroc Marrakech Jemaa-el-Fna Luc Viatour (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

I went to Marrakech for a long weekend last Friday. First off, I have to recommend cheap breaks website Ice Lolly. My friend Liz had used them before and she found a brilliant deal – just £350 for four nights and flights.

 

It was the perfect getaway. Liz has lovely children and they are now old enough for her to have a girls’ weekend away without feeling guilty or starting to miss them.

 

We both needed a break from the miserable weather and we couldn’t have timed it better.  Marrakech had storms and rain on Friday but we didn’t arrive until about 8pm, once they were over. We woke to brilliant blue skies on Saturday and they stayed that way all weekend.

 

You can’t expect too much from a £350 break – our Riad is billed as four star but was a bit dusty and worn around the edges. For us (keen backpackers, not bothered about luxury touches) it was absolutely spot on.

 

I don’t have pictures of Riad Amsaffah yet, as I have temporarily lost my photos, but I should be sorting out the photo issue tomorrow and will gleefully post as many as I can. And by the way, the ‘delete after download’ option will now always be unticked by me; I’ve learnt my lesson the hard way. My download failed but the delete went ahead despite this. I understand from the ever helpful internet that they will still be on the memory card (as long as I don’t use it). Unfortunately the free software I downloaded didn’t recognise my camera as a drive, so I’m waiting for a card reader to arrive tomorrow before I can sort it out. I mention all of this, as I hope that other bloggers can learn from my mistake!

 

So until I have sorted out my own photos, I’ll resist writing of my sun- and souk-filled days in Marrakech.

 

In the meantime, here are my top tips:

 

1. Take a canny bottle of your favourite spirit from duty free if you’re partial to a sunset drink. Mint tea is glorious but there is something so lovely about a ‘proper’ drink at that time of day and the rooftop locations around the Jemaa El Fna don’t serve alcohol.

 

2. The gates to the souk all close by 10pm at the latest, so if your Riad requires you to walk through them from the square, make sure you leave yourself enough time! We did but it was very close on the last evening. Taxis are surprisingly expensive and the drivers aren’t keen to haggle.

 

3. Budget to buy a rug. Sitting down to drink tea and be presented with a fulsome range of kilims is a great experience.

 

4. Visit the Majorelle Gardens, as they are stunning. But go early. By 10 a.m. they get busy and it’s a small place.

 

5. Get lost. Allow a whole afternoon simply to wander the souks without worrying where you are. It is like stepping back into the middle ages and is the most absorbing sight-seeing possible.

 

By Carole Scott

 

Life as Bowie or Clooney? [Daily Prompt: trading places]

English: George Clooney, Cannes film festival
English: George Clooney, Cannes film festival (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The inspiration crew at WordPress asked ‘Have you ever wondered what it would be like to trade places with a member of the opposite sex for a day?’

I haven’t wondered what a whole day would be like but I have wondered what sex as a man is like. I’m curious to know what a male orgasm feels like. How different is it to mine? And what does it feel like to enter a woman? Is an erection better or just different to my feelings of lust as a woman?

Crude questions? Perhaps, but I’m willing to bet that most of us have thought them – or similar ones.

Outside sex, though, I wonder what would be so different? It would be interesting to feel the difference in physical strength. I go to a climbing wall every week and I’m not a great climber, largely because I don’t work on my strength in between sessions. To experience the upper body strength that most of the guys at the wall have would be amazing!

Physicality apart, surely the experience would come down to what type of man or which particular man? Men are as diverse as women, so there could be no generic ‘oh, so this is what it feels like’ aspect to trading places.

If I could choose who I’d be, I’d be George Clooney and find out if he really IS sexy in real life. Or maybe not because when I switched back, I might have to live with the disappointment of finding out he’s not. If I picked my nose as George Clooney, I’d live with that memory for the rest of my life.

Instead perhaps I’ll opt to be Noah Stewart for the day, spending my time singing with a rich, deep boom that is impossible to imagine as a high alto.

I could inhabit the body, mind and life of a man I detest, to try and understand what makes him take the decisions he does. If I were Syrian President, Bashar Al-Assad, I could understand his black heart. And I could call a true cease fire, step down and allow my country to move towards democracy.

Right now, I’d like to be David Bowie for a day. Then I’d know if and when he’s going on tour. After such a long break, would I be nervous? Excited? Thrilled that at 66 I still have a beautiful voice and a vein of creativity as deep as it was when I first started out? Best of all, I’d be able to sing ‘Where are we now?’ with the right voice, not my voice.

The choices are endless and it is fun to imagine them. It would be wonderful if we were able to get under the skin of another person for a day, to see life through their eyes. Imagine the empathy we would have for each other as a result.

By Carole Scott

What a thoughtful article; a beautiful way to look at a city and I now know what palimpsest means, as I had to look it up to understand!

Lucy's avatarand those were the reasons

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The peeling paste-up

ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR forms of street art in Melbourne is the paste-up: printed or drawn posters adhered to city walls with a wheat-based glue. The physical insubstantiality of paste-ups renders them particularly ephemeral — they do not have the ‘sticking power’ of paint — yet this also makes them particularly ‘active’ components of the city footprint. The effects of time and human interface are readily wrought upon their surface. Older paste-ups peel away from the walls on which they are stuck; new ones are pasted over them, perhaps in turn to be painted over by following artists, tagged by graffitists, or torn down by council cleaning teams. For artist Miso, the traces of the ‘life’ of the poster are part of its appeal as an art form:

There is a certain excitement in nature and the city reclaiming that piece and the way people interact…

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Jordan: walking through the Siq

English: Petra, view on Al Khaznehfrom the siq...
English: Petra, view on Al Khaznehfrom the siq Deutsch: Petra, Blick auf Khazne al-Firaun aus dem Siq (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

My favourite place in the world is Petra, the hidden Nabatean city in southern Jordan.

 

It is hard to describe the hold and the pull that this mystical, magical place has on me. I visited first in 1994, before tourism took off. It was the year that the Jordanian and Israeli governments opened the border and day trippers were just beginning to hop over from cruises.

 

I was with Explore Worldwide, back in the days when they really WERE all about small group travel (sadly, that changed many years ago). There were eight of us plus a British tour leader, who was passionate about Jordan and hugely knowledgeable about the geology of the beautiful rocks.

 

It was a formative holiday for me and when I took a short career break eight years ago to become a tour leader, I was thrilled to be sent to the Middle East, to take tourists on a circuit of Lebanon, Syria and Jordan.

 

Petra has remained an inspiration and I hope to take a small group of friends there in spring 2014, Inshallah.

 

In the meantime, it has been the backdrop to my biggest creative project to date: a novel. I have no idea whether the finished article will be of publishable standard but I have loved every minute spent writing this tale.

 

I thought I’d share the passage in my manuscript where the protagonist walks through the Siq for the first time. For those of you who have visited Petra, I’d love to know whether the description resonates. For those of you who haven’t, I hope it inspires you to visit. You will be richly rewarded….

 

Alex woke with the call to prayer. She liked the plaintive wail. It was a powerful reminder that she was in a strange land.

 

She crept down the hallway, anxious not to wake anyone and feeling like a thief leaving the scene of a crime. In reception, she was offered a small breakfast. She relished the strong coffee and wrapped up the food.

 

She was at the entrance gate at six. The first small rays of light were stretching over the hills behind her to light the path ahead. Alex was surprised at how open it was. She had expected to be surrounded by the tall narrow rock walls of a gorge. This was a proper track, wide enough for a car and open to the skies. The rocks formed a tight wall to her right with the valley stretching fifteen metres to her left. There was no one around but she could hear horses whinnying and men talking in a stable block somewhere behind her.

 

Alex came to the start of the gorge. Huge rocks rose in front of her, with an opening enticing her in. She felt goose bumps on her arms and a shiver at the back of her neck.

 

She spent the next half hour in wide-eyed wonder; the ravine was narrow – in some places just a couple of metres wide – and the rocks curved up as far as the eye could see, with a narrow band of pale blue light above. Each twist and turn brought a new pattern in the sandstone and Alex stopped every few minutes to admire the layered waves of colour. The peace was broken by an occasional flurry of wings, as birds took off from nests high above. Alex wrapped the silence around her like a pashmina. It was both spooky and comforting.

 

Footsteps made her jump. She swung round as two figures emerged from a bend. She smiled and the couple nodded a silent greeting in return. Alex waited a few minutes before carrying on. With each swirling bend in the path, Alex wondered if the famous view would be just around the next corner.

 

There it was; a slender, uneven slice of light pink embossed with columns and carvings. Alex gasped, the familiar postcard sight made new and exhilarating in real life. She paused, allowing her eyes to adjust to the light, and looked into the narrow frame.

 

She emerged into sunshine. The tall façade rose up before her in an area surrounded by towering cliff faces. A path broke the rocks to her right, disappearing into a bend. She gazed at the sight in front of her. El Kazneh! Tears pricked her eyes and although no one was around, she felt foolish for being so moved by a stone monument. Alex marvelled that this grandiose, intricate façade was carved out of the rock, not built into it. Pairs of square marks ran up the side, as if someone had carved footholds in order to climb up to create the higher reaches.

 

She walked toward the building and climbed up the steps into the shade. There was nothing inside but it was impressive all the same, the cool, dank walls covered in wavy stripes of multi-coloured sandstone.

 

By the time she came out, the rough-hewn square was full of activity. A camel was folded onto its knees by the steps, its prehistoric moans echoing in the square, and a few Bedouin men were unpacking things to sell.

 
By Carole Scott

 

Marrakech: your tips please!

Marrakech: Majorelle Gardens
Marrakech: Majorelle Gardens (Photo credit: Martin and Kathy Dady)

I’m going to Marrakech in 11 days’ time and I’ve not had a chance to think about it. It has been 11 years since I was last there, so I need some tips from the wonderful blogging community I belong to.

The Majorelle Gardens are number one on my list, as I missed them last time.

Apart from the obvious (hanging out in the medina), what should I be doing? I need restaurant and bar recommendations too please!

By Carole Scott

Isle of Wondrous Spring…in January

Back in January, I trooped off to the Isle of Wight with a bunch of strangers for a walking weekend. Today I am remembering that mild, sunny weekend with great fondness, as sit in my living room wearing a huge jumper, with a woolly scarf wrapped around my neck. For here in Britain, as we head toward the end of March, it is a shudder-inducing 0ºC outside.

I had only ever been to Cowes before, in the height of summer, sailing for the day with friends who own a lovely boat. I wasn’t expecting much; I didn’t think the Isle of Wight would wow me given I’m from Scotland and have been many times to the Peaks and Cumbria.

I recommend this lovely pocket island for a weekend visit. The walking was superb – strenuous but across chalky clifftops with big wide skies.

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We were all delighted by the sheep dogs who leapt up onto the back of a quad bike to hitch a ride rather than run:

Even working dogs need a rest.
Even working dogs need a rest.

The sun was glorious – it looks cold here but it was beautiful.

iow02We spotted a red squirrel who stayed still for ages but even so it was hard to get a decent photo among the spikey branches.

A twinkle in his eye
A twinkle in his eye

And I loved the cattle; reminded me of being in Scotland.

iow06 iow07I like this view for its perspective and the feeling of the unknown waiting behind the crest of the ridge.

Do you know where you're going to?
Do you know where you’re going to?

At the end of the first day’s walk, we passed by a crazy little garden. It’s a bizarre way to try and raise money for lifeboats!

iow10 iow11We stayed in a FANTASTIC manor house; Northcourt Manor. Our group was so large that we rented out the entire house but it’s possible to stay as an individual as a B&B guest. I will be returning, as it was a little haven.

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After a Burns’ Night Supper and Ceilidh on Saturday night, I was well and truly ‘grouped out’ by Sunday morning. Rather than going on another walk, I decided to explore the garden in the crisp winter sun. It was so warm that after I had taken enough photos to fill a book, I sat in a sunny spot, coat and jumper flung to one side.

The garden was full of contrasts – the remnants of winter mixed with the promise of spring.

iow13 iow14 iow15 iow16 iow17 iow18 iow19 iow20What other little pockets of secret loveliness can people recommend in the UK?

By Carole Scott

 

If you pay your money, should you stay the course?

I had high hopes when I travelled to London on Friday.

I had signed up some time ago to a course, which I thought was designed to unleash powerful creativity.

I was quite taken aback to find that the course required me to sit still for hours in rows in the same windowless room. I’m not a fidgety person but after two hours of active listening I was ready to bolt. By the end of three hours with nothing but a 10 minute break, I was ready to jump around like a five year old in ‘music and movement’ class.

I didn’t think anyone still ran courses where you stayed in one spot absorbing for long stretches of time.

When concentration lapsed, we were supposed to go to a particular bit of the room and stretch – but even so, I’m surprised that the course leaders honestly believe that people learn most effectively when they are sitting and listening for hours on end.

I was contemplating not going back after lunch but decided to give it another go. By 4pm we had spent ANOTHER one and a half hours glued to the same spot.

I left. And so now I’m on my way to a Bowie Buffet – a party to celebrate the great artist’s return to music. I think I’ll feel more alive and full of creativity dancing to ‘Fashion’ or ‘Jean Genie’ that I would stuck in a conference room in Bloomsbury.

Or am I a wrong to quit early on a course that could start to deliver if only I stayed?

Give more love to your photos

Blurb Booksmart photobook review
Blurb Booksmart photobook review (Photo credit: delgaudm)

How often do you look at your favourite photos? And how do you look at them? Is it always on a computer screen? On Facebook, Flickr?

If you love your photos, then it’s worth thinking about how you look at them. There are so many details, subtleties and perspectives in a printed photo that don’t stand out on the screen.

In the past few years I have been making photo books. I make two kinds. The first is a ‘best of’ book and I try to do these every six months. It makes me pick through my portfolio, sifting and sifting until I find the best 20 or so.

Here’s a few from my last ‘best of’ book. I’m due to create one for the second half of 2012 but haven’t quite got round to it yet, so this is early 2012, when I had just bought my first ever DLSR. I love these photos because they represent that first flush of excitement of having a decent camera.

street15 London02 Jewels V (Liberty) Street: Portrait01 Squirrel03 Graffitti02 IMG_1602_1970_edited-1 IMG_1810_1965_edited-1 Paddy - 07 Duff_and_Gert-08_edited-1

The second type of photobook I create is the holiday portfolio. And thanks to a fantastic offer from Albelli (my favourite) I was able to create a treasure trove of 120 pages of memories of my recent Burma trip. It arrived today and it’s amazing. Photos really do look different on the printed page.

Is anyone else a fan of a good photobook?

By Carole Scott

Cuban authorities ban reggaeton

Flow, Puerto Rico
Undeniably sexy….Flow, Puerto Rico (Photo credit: Generationbass.com)

 

I was sad to read in Wanderlust magazine that the Cuban authorities have banned Reggaeton from public places.

 

As the news piece in Wanderlust puts it ‘Although Reggaeton music is hard to defend, it is still a form of mild musical repression and there are questions over where the line should be drawn regarding censorship.’

 

I hate sexism and I hate the objectification of women but surely banning music is just going to make it more attractive to people who live in a country full of restrictions on their freedom of expression?

 

Has anyone had the dubious pleasure of being a non-Cuban trying to dance Reggaeton in Havana, Trinidad or Santiago? It is outrageous but, but, but, but, it’s somehow so full of life that I can’t detest it. Being in a foreign language helps, as clearly I only catch a few of the sexist phrases!

 

I have many fond memories of trying to dance like Cubans and failing spectacularly that every now and again, I put my Reggaeton compilation CD on loud in the car and think of Cuban friends and the wonderful laughs and late nights I’ve had there.

 

If you want to be horrified by this vulgar music, I can recommend a listen to the likes of Gente de Zone. For something that’s less Reggaeton but has a heavier, funkier beat that salsa, check out Orishas – they’re superb! Hey, I’m not going to claim to be up on the latest, so if anyone can do better, let me know!

 

What does everyone else think? Love Reggaeton? Hate it?

 

p.s. you’ll be glad to know there are NO photos of me dancing Reggaeton, so here’s me dancing in a son show – badly!

 

Moving in the right direction, at least!
Moving in the right direction, at least!

 

British knees just don't DO what Cuban knees do!
British knees just don’t DO what Cuban knees do!

 

By Carole Scott

 

The last of my Burma chronicles: Inle Lake

The unique rowing style of the Inle Lake fishermen
The unique rowing style of the Inle Lake fishermen

My Burma chronicles are nearly done but the memories will live on forever. The more I have written, the more I want to make sure I go back in 2015, ideally as an election observer (unlikely, as there are far better qualified people) or simple to join in with celebrations, which I hope will come with change.

2015 feels a long way off still and anything could happen. In the meantime, I will dwell on the final leg of my trip, a relaxing visit to Inle Lake.

In my head, we were going to be staying right on the shoreline, watching the sun set over this beautiful lake. Had I thought about it a little harder, I would have realised that unless you are an ‘exclusive’ traveller, this would be unrealistic. Why would we want the banks of this lake spoilt by clusters of backpackers hostels and guesthouses?

Sensibly, whoever has developed the burgeoning tourist trade here has made sure that a nearby village has become the restaurant and guesthouse hub. It’s a sweet place…relaxed, friendly and delightful to cycle round. It reminded me of a little places like Banos in Ecuador (I’m talking 1996 by the way, so the comparison may be redundant now!) or Panajachel on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala (ditto!).

The highlight of a trip to the lake is – of course – a trip on the lake. The light was stunning, even at 8 a.m when we set out. There is a clarity out there that – again – put me in mind of South America and Lake Titicaca. When we set off, I was nervous that a day on a powered long boat would feel like being on a tour bus, as there were dozens of them, all jetting off at the same time down the canal leading to the lake. How could this be a peaceful day? As soon as we reached the lake I remembered a key fact from my guide book. Inle Lake is 13 miles long and 7 miles wide, with hundreds of tiny canals winding away from it to little settlements and villages. Other tourist boats were soon lines on the horizon and we only felt the tourist scene at the major sites, such as Indein, the biggest village on the day trip trail.

The on shore visits were fine rather than mind-blowing but that’s not important. The magic of came from watching everyday life as we streamed past. The fishermen seem like a tourist cliché, given how many award-winning photos of them appear in our press and online, but when I put the camera down and just watched them, the elegance of their rowing was a joy to see. Once in his ‘spot’ the fisherman stands at the end of his low, long boat (which were similar to Oxford punts) and balances on one leg, with his free leg woven around a long oar. This leaves both hands free to handle the nets. It amazed me that this style is unique to Inle, as it seemed such a sensible way to operate on a calm lake, as it means no pause in fishing when they need to move the boat a few metres this way or that.

As we motored down the canals, the variety of life on the banks or at the edges of the waterline was fantastic, from a man riding a water buffalo, to people growing veg in floating gardens.

Just as we were all enjoying the ease of swanning about in a motorised dugout, (relative) disaster struck. The boat I was in cracked over something as we puttered along a shallow canal. ‘Oh,’ said Bernadette, who was at the back, just in front of the boatman, ‘we’ve got a bit of water coming in.’ A ‘bit of water’ turned out to be fast-flowing and within seconds we realised we were sinking fast. Thankfully, the second boat for our group was behind, not in front and they arrived just in the nick of time. As we held bags and cameras aloft and urged the others to grab them from us, we stepped into their boat and looked round. What had been a boat just seconds before was now a wreck.

Thankfully, Paddy prioritised photos over sitting down safely! We thought she was mad at the time but I’m grateful now, as it’s funny to look back on it. I should point out that accidents are very rare indeed, so do not let this put you off an iconic tourist experience!

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We motored on to the lunch stop and borrowed a friend’s newly purchased fisherman’s trousers. I inadvertently caused hilarity among the waiting staff when I emerged from the toilets with the trousers on back to front. Sorry, no photo to show but needless to say I was immensely grateful that Will had bought them just before lunch. As Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood would say, I had a soggy bottom, which is never a good thing.

Our biggest concern was for the poor boatman. This was a borrowed boat, as his had engine trouble earlier on in the day. Over lunch, we discussed with our tour leader how the accident would affect him. Time taken to med the boat would mean him losing about two weeks’ worth of income. So we decided to club together to help out. It was easy for us to do and when we gave him the money the next day, it was clear that it meant alot to him.

There’s not much more I can say about my wonderful day on the lake that my photos can’t, so enjoy I hope you enjoy this final gallery.

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travel, pics & assorted thoughts from Carole Scott